Starting with a mature tree, take cuttings at their base when the tree is dormant—after the leaves have fallen in autumn and temperatures are consistently below 32 degrees Fahrenheit at night. Cuttings can be placed directly into the soil in late winter or early spring.
Keep the soil moist throughout the growing season to allow the cutting to develop healthy roots. Weeping willows can be struck by several pests, including the gypsy moth, aphids, and borers. These insects are difficult to control—especially on large trees—but targeted spraying with pesticide can help. Young weeping willows are also tempting to deer, elk, and rabbits; place a collar around young trees to protect them from wildlife. This tree may be affected by several ailments and diseases, including willow scab, crown gall, willow blight, fungi, cankers, leaf spot, tar spot, powdery mildew , rust, and root rot.
Symptoms include branch or twig dieback and defoliation, but in some cases, the disease can kill the tree. To minimize problems, provide adequate water to keep the tree healthy, since healthy trees are better able to fend off disease. Rake up and remove leaf litter promptly, to control the spreading of disease. If these methods do not work, fungicides might. Actively scan device characteristics for identification.
Use precise geolocation data. Select personalised content. Create a personalised content profile. Measure ad performance. Select basic ads. Create a personalised ads profile. Select personalised ads. Apply market research to generate audience insights. Measure content performance. Develop and improve products. Finish filling the hole with soil, tamping down lightly to remove any air bubbles. Weeping willow trees grow very well when planted near water, such as ponds or streams.
Weeping willow trees can thrive in full sun to partial shade, and are tolerant of many soil types. Weeping willow trees flourish in full sun to partial shade, meaning they need at least four hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight per day. Weeping willows are tolerant of many soil types, including alkaline, loamy, sandy, and clay soils. However, their preference is for moist, well-draining, slightly acidic soils.
If your soil is too alkaline, you can make it more acidic by amending it with sulfur. You need to water your weeping willow weekly for the first year after planting. You can test this by sticking your index finger into the surrounding soil.
In general, weeping willows do not need fertilizer to grow healthy and hardy. For best growth, prune your weeping willow when it is young, cutting it so that there is one central leader.
Snipping back all branches in late winter or early spring is advisable, because it will encourage new branch growth and invigorate your tree. Weeping willows are susceptible to willow scab, willow blight, black canker, fungi, powdery mildew, root rot, and more. Pest issues include aphids, gypsy moths, and borers. Targeted spraying can help alleviate this issue. Weeping willow trees do best when planted in areas that receive full sun to partial shade, in slightly acidic, moist soil.
While Willow Trees are not usually a favorite for deer, they can still be a problem for young Willow Trees. Not so much from eating or browsing on the foliage though Willows can grow through this quite well actually. The real challenge is that the bark on Willow Trees produce an aspirin like chemical that provide relief for the deer when new antlers are forming as they become very itchy. They seem to be attracted to the Willow for this reason.
Our Growers combat this on the Nursery regularly, each Fall season in particular. Easy to apply, it provides protection from buck rub as well as browsing.
Apply Plantskydd in the Fall, at the start of the season for buck rub. For best results, dip a rag into the Plantskydd and attach the rag directly to the Willow Tree. Repeat this effort about every three to four weeks for assurance, but many times on the Nursery we require only one application. I can assist you with ordering this product directly from us or you can visit one of our Certified Garden Centers near you if available.
I live in N San Diego county 6 miles from coast in a single story home. I wanted to put one in my front yard but it may be to small. The yard is 20 X 28, would the tree get too big?
How tall do they get? Any other tree suggestions that are colorful and lose their leaves? I am sorry to say that the Weeping Willow is going to be a bit too big for your yard. The Mimosa Tree a. Silk Tree is a gorgeous specimen with its delicate green leaves and feathery pink flowers that appear during the Summer. Another fantastic option would be the White Fringetree — this Tree has green leaves that turn a golden yellow in the Fall and its fluffy white flowers add a delicious fragrance to your landscape.
The Tuscarora Crape Myrtle will provide you with a beautiful pop of deep pink color during the Summer months followed by a blazing Fall show of red and orange. I live off the coast of Savannah, Ga. Big dummy. Just wanted your thoughts, thanks! Please continue to enjoy your Willow as it grows! They are most definitely a beautiful Tree as they mature! Our Willow has some lower limbs that we would like to trim. When is the best time of year to do this? Also, how far back can you trim the branch?
It is a branch coming off one of the lower branches. When it comes to how far back to prune, you do not want to prune the branch flush against the other branch. You want to leave the branch collar attached. The branch collar is a part of the of the main Tree, so if you cut the branch collar, you are wounding the Tree itself which can leave your Tree vulnerable to disease and pests.
Is there a particular time of year the tree should be put in the ground? Very interested in adding a second willow to the rear of my property near my creek, the first one is getting up there in age. The absolute best time to plant a Tree is in the Fall — at that time, the soil temperature is still warm enough that it will encourage root growth well into the start of Winter.
This will give your Tree a head start for the Spring growing season. It will also help better prepare your Tree for the intense heat that usually comes with Summer. How far back from the edge of a pond should a Weeping Willow be planted? Our Growers have planted Weeping Willows as close to the edge of ponds as possible, but always staying away from planting IN the water. It is important to note that at some time in the future, the size and weight of the Tree in softer, wet soils on the edge of the pond may cause the Willow to lean or even topple over.
We are here to help! While a Weeping Willow may use up some excess moisture in your yard, planting a Weeping Willow on or near your septic tank is not advised — nor would planting any large Tree in that area be recommended.
For your septic space, consider some less aggressive growers that would be able to provide the same benefit — Serviceberry Amelanchier are native Trees with shallow roots that would provide some relief for your problem. There are also other native shrubs that would be able to soak up some of the excess moisture.
For example, Viburnum would perform well, as will the Dappled Willow and varieties of Clethra. I realize the the weaping willow requires lots of water.
When the field turns brown in summer the leach field stays green with tall grass and sunflowers. But that seems like it would be the perfect environment to keep the tree watered and nutriated. The whole point of the leach field is to get rid of the water. It seems like the roots would do a good job of sucking up the water and nutrients even if they did infiltrate the pipes. The deep sand is ideal for a leach field to drain. Would it be crazy to plant a weaping willow next to the leach field?
We have a spot in our back yard we are considering planting a willow tree that has good moisture it floods every winter in this space and I think is about 25 feet away from our house. However, we have PVC piping out towards the area that is in place for our sprinkler system.
It would also sit a few feet away from a concrete retaining wall that separates us from a main road in our neighborhood. Do you think this is too tight of a squeeze for our yard? If so, do you have any recommendations on faster growing trees that we could place there instead? I believe we are in zone 9, and with only having bought the house brand new a few years ago, we are eager to get some shade back there.
Thanks for your help! Our tree is seeping and the last couple of years it has been attacked by aphids.
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